what volume developer should i use

3 min read 15-04-2025

The world of hair color can feel overwhelming, especially when you’re faced with a shelf full of different developer volumes. Choosing the right one is crucial for achieving your desired results and avoiding damage. This guide will break down everything you need to know about developer volumes so you can confidently select the perfect one for your next hair coloring adventure. Understanding developer volume is key to achieving your dream hair color safely and effectively.

Understanding Hydrogen Peroxide and Developer

Hair color developers are essentially hydrogen peroxide solutions. They're not the color itself, but rather the agent that lifts your natural hair color, allowing the hair color to penetrate and deposit its pigment. The "volume" refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Higher volume means a higher concentration, leading to a greater lifting power.

Common Developer Volumes and Their Uses

Different hair coloring projects require different levels of lift. Here's a breakdown of the most common developer volumes:

Volume 10 Developer (3%)

Lifting Power: Minimal lift. Great for:
- Toning: Neutralizing unwanted brassiness or yellow tones in previously colored hair.
- Glazing: Adding shine and subtle color enhancement to already-colored hair.
- Blending: Covering grays subtly on darker hair.
Best for: Darker hair colors, low-lift situations, and maintaining color. It causes minimal damage.

Volume 20 Developer (6%)

Lifting Power: Low to medium lift. Ideal for:
- Demi-permanent color: Provides subtle color changes, blends grays, and adds shine.
- Color refreshing: Reviving faded color without significant lift.
- Darker highlights: Slightly lightening darker hair.
Best for: People with naturally dark hair who want subtle color changes or those refreshing their existing color.

Volume 30 Developer (9%)

Lifting Power: Medium lift. Suitable for:
- Permanent hair color: Provides a significant color change, especially on lighter hair.
- Medium highlights: Lifting hair 2-3 levels.
- Blonding darker hair (with caution): Can lift darker hair several shades, but requires careful application and processing time to prevent damage.
Best for: Those with medium to light brown hair who want a significant color change or medium highlights.

Volume 40 Developer (12%)

Lifting Power: High lift. Used for:
- Significant lightening: Lifting hair multiple levels, often for blonding.
- Strong highlights: Achieving lighter blonde shades.
- Bleach: Often used with bleach powder to achieve very light blonde results.
Best for: Experienced colorists working on lightening dark hair significantly. This volume can cause significant damage if used incorrectly.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Developer Volume

Several factors influence the appropriate developer volume:

Your Natural Hair Color: Darker hair requires a higher volume developer to achieve significant lightening, while lighter hair needs a lower volume.
Desired Color Change: A dramatic color change will require a higher volume than a subtle one.
Hair Health: Damaged or previously processed hair is more susceptible to damage from higher volume developers. Always err on the side of caution and use a lower volume if your hair is damaged.
Your Experience: Beginners should start with lower volume developers to avoid mistakes and potential damage.

How to Choose the Right Volume for Your Project

Here's a simple guide:

Question: What volume developer should I use for highlighting my dark brown hair?

Answer: For highlighting dark brown hair, you’ll likely need a Volume 30 or even 40 developer. However, it’s crucial to consult with a professional stylist, as using too high a volume can damage your hair.

Question: What developer should I use to tone my blonde hair?

Answer: A Volume 10 developer is perfect for toning. It will neutralize any unwanted brassiness or yellow tones without significantly altering your current color.

Question: What is the best volume for covering gray hair?

Answer: For covering gray hair, a Volume 10 or 20 developer is generally sufficient, depending on your base color and the desired level of gray coverage.

Protecting Your Hair

Regardless of the developer volume you choose, always follow these precautions:

Strand Test: Perform a strand test before applying any color to your entire head. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the developer and color.
Follow Instructions: Carefully read and follow the instructions on your hair color product.
Protect Your Skin: Use a barrier cream around your hairline to prevent skin irritation.
Deep Condition: After coloring, use a deep conditioner to help repair and hydrate your hair.

Choosing the right developer volume is essential for achieving beautiful, healthy-looking hair color. By understanding the different volumes and considering your specific needs, you can confidently create the look you desire. If you are unsure, consulting a professional hairstylist is always the safest option.